
Food
16 pages





Updated 8 months ago

16 pages

Rahul Prabhakar
10 months ago
Counter Culture: Madam Chow at The Oberoi, Gurugram There's a certain theatre to the way a great Chinese restaurant reveals itself. You walk in expecting one thing—perhaps the familiar comforts of your neighbourhood Sichuan joint or the elegant predictability of Cantonese dim sum—and then the kitchen sends out a dish that makes you reconsider everything you thought you knew about Chinese cuisine in India. That's exactly what happened to me at Madam Chow, the newest culinary jewel in The Oberoi's Gurugram crown. The Legend and The Setting The restaurant takes its name from a rather intriguing backstory—The Legend of Madam Chow—a tale of a mysterious woman whose mastery of Chinese cuisine was supposedly without parallel. Whether this is historical fact or inspired mythology hardly matters. What does matter is that the kitchen seems determined to live up to the legend. Architecturally, Madam Chow is housed in a striking glass pavilion that overlooks the hotel's signature blue reflective pool. The design philosophy is rooted in Yin and Yang—stone balanced against glass, wood softened by light, shadow playing against illumination. By day, it's bright and airy, the kind of space where business lunches feel appropriately sophisticated. But come evening, the transformation is remarkable. The lighting shifts, the mood deepens, and suddenly you're in an intimate, dramatic space where every detail—from the craft of the interiors to the plating of each dish—feels considered and intentional. The Kitchen's Pedigree At the helm are 𝐂𝐡𝐞𝐟 𝐖𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐊𝐰𝐚𝐢 𝐖𝐚𝐡 from Singapore and 𝐂𝐡𝐞𝐟 𝐌𝐚𝐫𝐤 𝐋𝐢𝐧 from Malaysia, two culinary craftsmen who bring with them the weight of tradition and the lightness of innovation. Their menu is an ambitious exploration of China's two great culinary regions: Guangdong (Cantonese) and Sichuan. These are provinces renowned not just for distinctive flavours but for their premium ingredients and masterful techniques—the kind that separate competent Chinese cooking from the truly exceptional. The Tasting Trail I began, as one should, with the steamed dim sum. Now, I've eaten my way through enough dim sum baskets to know that this is where pretenders are exposed and masters are revealed. The Ocean Tide immediately announced the kitchen's intentions—blue pea flower for colour and drama, rock lobster for luxury, shaved truffle for that umami depth, and asparagus to cut through the richness. This wasn't dim sum playing it safe. This was dim sum with something to prove. The baos arrived next, and here again, the kitchen showed its hand. The Sheng Jian Bao—those pan-seared pork buns with their sesame crust and caramelized onions—had that textural contrast that makes great Chinese food so satisfying. Crisp exterior, yielding interior, the sweetness of the onions playing against the savouriness of the pork. Simple in concept, difficult in execution, flawless in delivery. From the Baked and Fried section, I chose the Lychee Bonsai—a dish that sounds almost whimsical but proved to be seriously delicious. Shrimp, mozzarella, and bubu arare came together in a way that was both familiar and surprising, like meeting an old friend who's learned some fascinating new tricks. The Roast Peking Duck is, of course, non-negotiable. This is the dish by which Chinese restaurants are often judged, and rightly so. It's technically demanding, requires precision timing, and reveals immediately whether a kitchen understands restraint. Madam Chow's version passed the test with flying colours—crisp skin, succulent meat, served with the traditional accompaniments that let the duck remain the star. For the main course, I opted for the Xiang La Tofu—the Chef's interpretation of a Sichuanese classic. This is comfort food elevated, the kind of dish that makes you wonder why anyone ever settles for mediocre Chinese food when this level of execution is possible. The slow-braised soy chicken was equally impressive, rich without being heavy, complex without being fussy. These were paired with Edamame and golden garlic fried rice (because sometimes the simplest accompaniments are the best) and Lanzhou udon with Asian greens (because noodles should always be part of a proper Chinese meal). The Sweet Conclusion Dessert at Chinese restaurants in India has historically been an afterthought—a few perfunctory items that nobody orders because everyone's too full or too sensible. Madam Chow has clearly decided this won't do. The Hinojo Caramel Flan arrives as an elegant composition: five-spice honey blossom cream, mandarin gel, honey crunch. It's the kind of dessert that intrigues rather than overwhelms, that leaves you wanting just one more spoonful even as you insist you couldn't possibly. The meal concluded with Silver Needle tea—rare, refined, offering notes of ripe melon and honey with a silky, refreshing finish. It's the sort of tea that reminds you why the Chinese elevated tea-drinking to an art form centuries before coffee became the West's obsession. The Verdict Madam Chow is that increasingly rare thing: a restaurant that respects tradition while refusing to be imprisoned by it. The menu is rooted in the authentic flavours of Guangdong and Sichuan, but Chef Mark and Chef Wong aren't running a museum. They're running a living, breathing kitchen that understands how to honour heritage while embracing contemporary sensibilities. The cocktail-forward bar offers inventive Asian-inspired pairings that complement rather than compete with the food. The service is polished without being precious. And the overall experience—from the architectural drama of the space to the final sip of tea—feels carefully orchestrated yet never forced. This is Chinese dining redefined for an audience that appreciates authenticity but demands innovation, that values tradition but expects excellence, that wants to be surprised but never shocked. Make a reservation. This is the kind of restaurant that books up quickly, and for once, the hype is entirely justified. Madam Chow is located at The Oberoi, Gurugram. Advance reservations are recommended.


Geetika Saini
1 week ago
Our best fine-dine experience so far. It was my wife’s birthday and they not only accepted all my special requests, but also gave us multiple complimentary things. The service was exceptional, Mr. Suraj and all the other staff members were super courteous. We will definitely come back.

Ajay Kashyap
9 months ago
Finally found good Chinese food in India ! Outstanding and authentic cuisine

Anubhav Gupta
4 months ago
Extremely average food that doesn’t at all justify the hefty prices- as good as any of the standalone Chinese restaurants in Gurgaon. Staff compared to Taj is very cold attitude wise - definitely won’t recommend this ton anyone

Amit Singhal
9 months ago
Nightmare Anniversary at Oberoi Gurgaon (Chinese Restaurant) Rating: ★☆☆☆☆ (1/5 Stars) Date: [Insert Date of Visit] Occasion: Wedding Anniversary My family of four (two adults, two children) visited the Chinese restaurant at the Oberoi Gurgaon to celebrate our wedding anniversary. We walked in with high expectations given the brand's reputation, but we walked out having experienced the worst dining experience of my life. The Food & Pricing For a 5-star property, the food was shockingly poor. It was completely tasteless, lacking any authentic flavor or quality one would expect at these price points. It was vastly overpriced for the quality served. The Service & The Cake The service was pathetic throughout the meal. Staff were unresponsive and seemed uninterested in attending to us. The highlight of the incompetence was the celebratory cake. We were promised a complimentary cake when booking the table for our anniversary. Despite reminding them, the cake only arrived after 12:00 AM—long after our dinner was finished and the children were exhausted. The timing completely ruined the moment. Management Attitude To make matters worse, when we complained about the delay and the poor service, we were kept waiting an unreasonable amount of time just to get the bill. When the manager finally approached us, instead of apologizing or trying to rectify the situation, he was incredibly rude. He essentially told us, "We can't do anything, pay the bill and leave." Verdict I cannot believe this type of attitude and service exists at an Oberoi property. They completely ruined our special occasion. I would not recommend this restaurant to anyone expecting decent service or respect. Pros: None. Cons: Tasteless food, rude management, unresponsive staff, ruined celebration.
₹7000 for two
Chinese, Sichuan
❖Dinner |
❖Lunch |
❖Indoor seating |
